Oxford shoes for men: A buying guide

2023-10-23

It’s somewhat bittersweet in this day and age that we don’t wear classic Goodyear welted shoes as much. Granted, a move towards more casual styles is welcome. Sneakers are comfortable and don’t require an initial painful bedding in. But that feeling you get, often the same feeling that comes with wearing a suit, of unboxing a pair of leather dress shoes, Oxford shoes in this case, really is unrivalled.

A suit and a proper pair of Goodyear welted leather Oxfords is a special kind of armour. The Oxford element of that armour is so often overlooked. Everyone’s been there. Rushing to put together a last minute wedding or business outfit. Dress code strictly smart. Shoes so often an afterthought. A key part of an outfit criminally overlooked and underspent on. If you’re going to get one smart shoe and commit to spending proper money on it, a pair of Oxfords are probably your best bet.

Smart, elegant and formal, the men's Oxford shoe is believed to originate from a half boot style that was popular in the 1800s at, you guessed it, Oxford University. Traditionally, an Oxford is either black or brown and characterised by closed lacing (as opposed to a Derby’s open lacing). Oxfords can feature broguing of various styles and contemporary styles can vary in colour and material.

How to wear Oxfords
First things first, if you’re looking for a formal smart shoe, the Oxford should be top of your list. In traditional brown or black, the Oxford is a best friend to tailoring and provides an understated cherry on the cake of a smart suit and tie. Brown Oxford shoes, ideally darker, will go with charcoal, navy and brown suits. Black Oxfords meanwhile lend themselves to black, charcoal and navy tailoring. If you don’t fancy a slipper style loafer, a black Oxford will do the trick with a tux.

In a formal setting, for the smartest possible look, it’s best to opt for sleeker, broguing-free, Goodyear welted styles made from smooth or patent leather. These styles may well have a thinner shape and it’s worth considering different last shapes. Care for them by using shoe trees and make sure they’re kept clean and polished.

Moving down the scale towards a more casual look, less formal tailoring compliments an Oxford brogue, using the aforementioned colour combinations. Quarter, semi and full-brogue (wingtip) styles also work well with a more varied style of trouser, be it a pleated wide-leg pant or a classic slim chino. If you’re looking to wear a pair with jeans, we’d recommend both denim and shoe be dark. It’s safer to stick with brown.
Looking for something more other style? These are the best minimalist leather shoes for men.